gironaJ

While the whole of Europe is experiencing winter storms here on the Costa Brava there were snow flurries today, something that only happens about every 10 years.

           

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Winter_walk-_Calella_to_Llafra.zip (22999 KB)

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Both Celra and Bordils are not most people's idea of scenic villages as they pass through in their cars along the main road to the Costa Brava from Girona. However, get a little out of the town of Celra and a remarkable transformation takes place, with fertile land planted with different seasonal crops as well as a tree and shrub nursery which covers many hectares. 

             

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Bike_ride_Celra_to_Bordils_alo.zip (10158 KB)

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Pals is a town set on a hill some 6 kms from the Costa Brava and has been well restored in all its medieval splendour. The steep narrow streets winding up to the church and tower are full of interesting balconies, doors, courtyards with many colourful plants like hibiscus and bougainvillea growing everywhere.
Like all medieval towns the important characteristics are here, the hill and walls for extra fortification, the church and lords house and the tower which was a lookout as well as providing water storage in some cases. Pals was on the coast 500 years ago before the surrounding land silted up and watching for pirates was important as this was a wealthy town from trading agricultural commodities.
Rice from Pals is famous for its quality and flavour and they built an irrigation system to sustain the industry which dates back a thousand years.
Now the town mainly lives off tourism with many art galleries, shops selling local produce (chocolates and rice) and ceramics from the nearby La Bisbal pottery centre. There are many terraces to sit and eat and drink in the shade before admiring the views from the top of the village over the Islas Medes and the Mediterranean Sea.

           

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Pals-_medieval_splendour.zip (6396 KB)

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Calella de Palafrugell is one of those perfect Mediterranean fishing villages which are now sophisticated tourist resorts but without having spoilt either the natural beauty or grown too big to stroll through easily.
Located on what is, for me, the nicest part of the Costa Brava, where the pine trees and wild herbs cling to steep canyons which plunge down to the crystal clear water below.
The best way to see this coast is to walk along the coastal path or "cami de ronda" which will make you work as you follow all the ups and downs of the contours but is well worth it for the views and to experience some of the wild parts that are hardly reached by the 6 million visitors to this area every year.

         

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Calella_de_Palafrugell_-_spect.zip (15852 KB)

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There are few better ways of spending a Friday afternoon than hiring a 12m yacht with some friends and heading off in a 15 knot wind and choppy seas for four hours of sheer unwinding glorious weather sailing.
As we left the port of Palamos we passed fishing boats coming in with their days catch to auction at the fish market (the llotja), the largest on the Costa Brava. As the coastline diminished over the horizon the steady breeze and rolling waves became our world and even the minor problem of drinking wine out of plastic cups while at a 45º angle seemed fun.
The sense of peace and space combined with the exhilaration of sailing is a potent mixture and as therapeutic as any I have felt. As the sun dropped behind the coastal range we were berthing once again in Palamos and after some brief arranging of buoys and ropes it was hard to believe that four hours had passed by so quickly and pleasantly.
Thank you Jochen and Annie for inviting me.

         

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Sailing_off_the_Costa_Brava.zip (3698 KB)

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This has been a much longer and harder winter than normal here in Girona province, nowhere near as bad as in more northerly countries of course, but everything is relative as they say.
Here we have had several epic storms, some of which hit the headlines internationally, along the Costa Brava and inland flooding with very high winds causing extensive tree and roof damage.
Well the good news is that after a walk in the Empordà this week there are finally signs of spring, although it is several weeks behind Barcelona and the Penedes.
The first colour to appear in the countryside is the white almond blossom, closely followed by the pink plum blossom and then in the sheltered areas the spectacular yellow mimosa.
It is also nice to see bees buzzing around as they have been hit by various diseases that have decimated their numbers and the smell of the blossom in the warm sunny days is wonderful.
So, the economy might look like hell but at least we can appreciate the wonders of spring in this beautiful area.

         

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Signs_of_Spring-finally.zip (8743 KB)

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Known as the Cami de Ronda, the coastal path that goes all along the Costa Brava up to the French border, has some truly spectacular parts, and this is one of them. It's only short (an hours hike) but the dramatic scenery and views make it a great introduction to the "Wild Coast".
After last weeks storm damage, the wooden walkway was either completely destroyed/submerged/brocken as you leave Sant Pol beach in S'Agaró heading south. Once you climb away from sea level, which you do rather quickly, the normal well kept and sign posted path resumes. There are modern houses and blocks of apartments dotted up the hill, but somehow they do not intrude overly, and anyway, ones focus is towards the sea. The path follows the inlets and rugged outcrops as it winds it's way up to a point from which there are views over the whole Sant Pol beach and bay in the distance.
The really nice part about this stretch is how thoughtful the local council have been in putting picnic tables and benches in strategic places for maximum enjoyment. A legacy from a previous upgrading long ago is a pedestrian tunnel complete with alcoves and windows so you don't miss any of the wonderful sights as you pass under some splendid mansions garden.
The flora and fauna are protected and the wind blown shapes of the pines and cork oaks add to the surreal but peaceful environs, except for the circling gulls nesting along the cliffs. All too soon we come around the headland on the other side and catch sight of the marina and town of Sant Feliu de Guixols. As we leave the wild coast behind my mouth starts to salivate at the thought of a small glass of wine with a seafood tapa in the bars around the port...

         

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Coastal_path_from_SAgar_to_San.zip (4310 KB)

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Walking along a fairly deserted promenade in Palamos today after some of the worst storms in recent memory over Christmas. Some coastal towns on the south of the Costa Brava like Blanes, Lloret de Mar and Tossa de Mar suffered severe damage to their beaches, promenades and even flooding to buildings along the beach from the 6metre high waves and 90km winds. Other places like Cadaques were cut off because of snow which in itself only happens rarely in these days of global warming. Here in Palamos they had a scare as one of the large ferry boats broke its moorings and floated out to sea before being rescued and towed to port again.
Still, we are on the Mediterranean and after a few dramatic days everything will return to sunny, calm and quiet winter days very soon!

         

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Storm_hit_Costa_Brava_-_Palamo.zip (2867 KB)

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