There are few better ways of spending a Friday afternoon than hiring a 12m yacht with some friends and heading off in a 15 knot wind and choppy seas for four hours of sheer unwinding glorious weather sailing.
As we left the port of Palamos we passed fishing boats coming in with their days catch to auction at the fish market (the llotja), the largest on the Costa Brava. As the coastline diminished over the horizon the steady breeze and rolling waves became our world and even the minor problem of drinking wine out of plastic cups while at a 45º angle seemed fun.
The sense of peace and space combined with the exhilaration of sailing is a potent mixture and as therapeutic as any I have felt. As the sun dropped behind the coastal range we were berthing once again in Palamos and after some brief arranging of buoys and ropes it was hard to believe that four hours had passed by so quickly and pleasantly.
Thank you Jochen and Annie for inviting me.
Known as the Cami de Ronda, the coastal path that goes all along the Costa Brava up to the French border, has some truly spectacular parts, and this is one of them. It's only short (an hours hike) but the dramatic scenery and views make it a great introduction to the "Wild Coast".
After last weeks storm damage, the wooden walkway was either completely destroyed/submerged/brocken as you leave Sant Pol beach in S'Agaró heading south. Once you climb away from sea level, which you do rather quickly, the normal well kept and sign posted path resumes. There are modern houses and blocks of apartments dotted up the hill, but somehow they do not intrude overly, and anyway, ones focus is towards the sea. The path follows the inlets and rugged outcrops as it winds it's way up to a point from which there are views over the whole Sant Pol beach and bay in the distance.
The really nice part about this stretch is how thoughtful the local council have been in putting picnic tables and benches in strategic places for maximum enjoyment. A legacy from a previous upgrading long ago is a pedestrian tunnel complete with alcoves and windows so you don't miss any of the wonderful sights as you pass under some splendid mansions garden.
The flora and fauna are protected and the wind blown shapes of the pines and cork oaks add to the surreal but peaceful environs, except for the circling gulls nesting along the cliffs. All too soon we come around the headland on the other side and catch sight of the marina and town of Sant Feliu de Guixols. As we leave the wild coast behind my mouth starts to salivate at the thought of a small glass of wine with a seafood tapa in the bars around the port...
Walking along a fairly deserted promenade in Palamos today after some of the worst storms in recent memory over Christmas. Some coastal towns on the south of the Costa Brava like Blanes, Lloret de Mar and Tossa de Mar suffered severe damage to their beaches, promenades and even flooding to buildings along the beach from the 6metre high waves and 90km winds. Other places like Cadaques were cut off because of snow which in itself only happens rarely in these days of global warming. Here in Palamos they had a scare as one of the large ferry boats broke its moorings and floated out to sea before being rescued and towed to port again.
Still, we are on the Mediterranean and after a few dramatic days everything will return to sunny, calm and quiet winter days very soon!