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March 9, 2010

The aftermath of the great storm

What a storm! 

According to news reports Girona province was the worst affected in Catalonia and for the record books this was the most snow locally since records have been kept!
Today, day two, and so far it has been clear and sunny which means the great thaw has set in with problems switching to drains and rivers overflowing. At least 200,000 people are still without electricity and the trains are not running yet. Other obvious damage was mainly to trees where branches fell under the weight of the wet snow and electricity pylons are also down as we had high winds all night long.
My son came back from an afternoon of sledding down the steps of the Cathedral which he rated as more fun than going to a ski resort and my big regret was not taking some pictures as I only heard about it afterwards...
Like the miners strike in the UK in the 1970's when the power was cut every evening we may see a mini baby boom here in Girona although we may need a few more nights to really get in the mood!

           
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The_aftermath_of_the_great_sto.zip (9253 KB)

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Filed under  //   Catalonia   Girona   power cuts   snowstorm  

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March 1, 2010

Tasting 44 Catalan red wines

Some would imagine a really enjoyable experience, others would savour every drop but the reality is that tasting so many wines is hard work for the palate, and you come out with teeth looking like you have been to dinner with Dracula.

True professionals spend more time with their nose pushed deep into the glass than quaffing the wine, and even then it is swirled around the mouth and spat out. Trying to capture what you have seen, smelled and tasted in words is possibly the hardest part and "I like this one" is not acceptable wine terminology.
When the wines you are tasting are all from the same region (Catalonia) and the same grape varieties are present in most of the wines it tends to emphasize the defects present very clearly and the 8 tasters were pretty unanimous on which were the worst wines. Worst in the sense of not technically correct, either through lack of balance, too much wood, lack of acidity or both which in Spanish wines seems to be a constant problem.
At the end of the 3 hour session a few wines emerged in both the under and over 15€ division.
In the under 15€ bracket: 
2 wines from Cadaques (Empordà) which is more famous for artists than wines but these are both new wineries and interesting to taste- Pirata and Perafita; from the Montsant l'Alleu and l'Heravi; from Terra Alta Sola d'en Pol and Templari and Sirsell from the Priorat where most wines are more expensive.
In the above 15€ category(some wines went up to 80€):
From the Empordà, Perelada wines were represented with both Finca Malaveina and Finca Garbet; from Montsant a Kosher wine Peraj Ha' abib; from the Priorat the Trio Infernal and Akiles 
Undoubtably the most dissapointing showing were for some the expensive wines including Finca Dofi and Vall Llach which just goes to prove that tasting blind means your palate is not biased!

         
Click here to download:
Tasting_44_Catalan_red_wines.zip (6408 KB)

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Filed under  //   Catalonia   D.O. Emporda   Montsant   priorat   red wine   Spanish wine   tasting   Terra Alta   wine tasting  

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June 26, 2009

Lleida la Seu Vella cloisters

Lleida is on the westernmost edge of Catalonia and on the main roads to Zaragoza and Madrid from Barcelona. The plains around here produce many kinds of soft fruit like pears, peaches, cherries and apples as well as grapes from the D.O.Costers del Segre. The key to the agriculture is having the river Segre as a source for irrigation as without it only olive trees, almonds and vines can survive the extreme conditions.

Lleida itself has a hill in the middle topped by the Seu Vella, a Romanesque cathedral which was later abandoned and incorporated into a modern fort in the 17th century.
The cloisters are some of the biggest and most beautiful in Europe, built in the 13th and 14th centuries and from where there are magnificent views of the surrounding city and countryside. There is a small museum which houses some of the recovered archaeological remains found within the walls of the fort. The contrast of the thick walls of the fort surrounding the delicate arches of the cloister makes this a very special place.
So, if you are driving by make sure you make a detour and revel in the beauty of the cloisters of the Seu Vella, you won't regret it.

           
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Lleida_la_Seu_Vella_cloisters.zip (6346 KB)

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Filed under  //   Barcelona   Catalonia   Cathedral   Costers del Segre D.O.   la Seu Vella   Lleida   Madrid   Segre river   Zaragoza  

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June 25, 2009

Sitges museums

The three museums in Sitges are all close together and worth visiting, displaying some impressive collections of art, glassware, ironwork and antique dolls in buildings that are also architectural treasures.

The Cau Ferrat museum is on the sea front in a converted fisherman's house which was bought by one of Catalonia's most important painters and collectors, Santiago Rusiñol (1861-1931) to house his studio and art collections. Some of his own favourite pieces are on display but the house is absolutely packed with interesting art, including pictures by Picasso and El Greco which he bought with funds from his inheritance from a wealthy textile family. As well as art there are important collections of pottery, glass and metal objects, mainly of Catalan origin.
The Maricel museum is next door and is another impressive house built by an American millionaire and subsequently bought by the town to house it's various art collections, the main one coming from the local doctor and collector Jesus Perez-Rosales. Spread over three floors we have sculptures, furniture and even one whole part dedicated just to Catalan maritime history, fishing and models of ships from the 19th century.
The Romantic museum is set in an impressive local merchants house preserved to show how the upper classes lived in the 18th and 19th centuries, how they dressed and what were their pastimes and interests. One of the most extensive collections of painted dolls are displayed upstairs.
There are some very fine pieces here and this is a great way to pass a few hours out of the sun discovering the artists who made the area famous.

           
Click here to download:
Sitges_museums.zip (7068 KB)

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Filed under  //   Catalan   Catalonia   Cau ferrat   El Greco   Maricel   museums   Picasso   Romantic   Santiago Rusinol   Sitges  

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May 4, 2009

Falset wine fair Priorato/Montsant

For the first weekend in may Falset becomes the wine capital of Catalonia when it celebrated their 14th wine fair. Priorato and Montasant are the remote and arid areas which became one of the poorest parts of Spain after the lead mining industry closed down in the 1970's and agriculture was always marginal at best.
Until a few brave and visionary souls decided to recover the old vines and plant new ones in the 1980's and 90's there was very little reason to come here other than for the mountain scenery and general tranquility of the villages.
Now it is recognised as producing some of the most exciting wines in Spain, with prices, in some cases, to match. Like most luxury goods, the last ten years has seen some real booms and these fashionable wines were leading the pack. Now comes the reality that from a dozen wineries to 82 registered with the regulatory body there is bound to be a pretty brutal shakeout process.
None of this seemed to worry the crowds who poured into this sleepy farming town for the festival to try the wonderful olive oils, varied local foods and of course the wines.The weather was truly summery and added to the festive spirit. Salud as they say here!


           
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Falset_wine_fair_PrioratoMonts.zip (10269 KB)

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Filed under  //   Catalonia   Falset   festival   Montsant   Priorato   Spain   wine fair  

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April 23, 2009

Sant Jordi - Catalonia's patron saint

The 23rd of April is not an official holiday here in Catalonia but it sure seems like it! Many balconies and buildings are draped in Catalan flags and many shop windows try to incorporate one of the two main symbols of the day.
The tradition is for men to give women a rose (or two!) and in return they are given a book. The centre of Girona around the Rambla is full of stalls selling books and flowers and I have never seen the streets so busy, possibly because it has been a splendid, warm (hot even) day, with a clear blue sky after what seems like weeks of rain.
This is one of the few times that people seem to raise money for "good" causes; children raise money for their school play or boy scouts for a summer camp.
So beware as you walk the streets, either buy a rose or use a book to defend yourself !
 

           
Click here to download:
Sant_Jordi_-_Catalonias_patron.zip (873 KB)

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Filed under  //   books   Catalan   Catalonia   Girona   patron saint   Rambla de la Libertad   roses   Saint George   Sant Jordi  

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March 29, 2009

The MNAC - a must see museum

The MNAC (Museu National d'Art de Catalunya) sits in a priviledged position at the top of Montjüic with views over Barcelona. The building itself is massive and impressive but is currently under scaffolding for renovation but the collections it houses are the most spectacular part.
There are permanent collections that range from what could be salvaged from the Romanesque through the Gothic, Baroque to the Modern period. All have their own wing in this light and airy building as well as space for a concert hall, several restaurants and bookshops.
This is a must for all visitors who want to get a feel for the cultural richness of Catalonia as well as some of the best views of Barcelona and enjoying strolling through the tranquil and cool gardens all around.

     
Click here to download:
The_MNAC-a_must_see_museum.zip (2939 KB)

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Filed under  //   Barcelona   Baroque   Catalonia   Gothic   MNAC Barcelona   Modern   Montjuic   Romanesque  

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March 4, 2009

Catalan visionaries-exhibition @ CCCB Barcelona

This extremely interesting and well put together exhibition at the CCCB in Barcelona (next to the MNAC) is a must to get the sense of the creativity which has made modern Catalonia famous.
It unites the main thinking and trends of architecture, music, image and literature since the end of the 19th century. We see for example some of the original sketches and scale models that Gaudi used to test his designs, right down to individual pieces and how they were created using all sorts of materials.
The creative genius of Salvador Dalí and the poet/surrealist Joan Brossa also feature as multifaceted and deeply interested in science and how they incorporated these theories into their work is captured on film and in their art.
Ideas for city planning are shown evolving over the last 100 years with influences from some of the main local architects as well as  Le Corbusier and others, and right up to date projects which are still evolving like the 22@ district and the Forum.
An altogether fascinating way to spend a few hours and come out with a greater sense of the ways in which Catalonia has evolved into what it is today.

         
Click here to download:
Catalan_visionaries-exhibition.zip (2377 KB)

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Filed under  //   @22 district   Catalonia   CCCB Barcelona   Forum   Gaudi   Joan Brossa   Le Corbusier   MNAC Barcelona   salvador dalí  

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January 6, 2009

Three Kings day - Spanish holiday

Some countries have kept family reunions separate from the present-giving commercial part of Christmas. Here in Catalonia the 25th and 26th of December are family days with nice meals and maybe a visit to church, but presents come on Three Kings day, or to be more precise on the night of the 5th and morning of the 6th of January.
Throughout Spain the Three Kings arrive from the Orient on horses, camels and boats and parade through the streets of towns and cities distributing the presents which all good children have asked them for in letters posted in the days before. The procession takes different forms but always involves music, dancing, singing, candles or firecrackers and lots of sweets distributed by the various Kings and their helpers, usually seated on grand carriages.
Here in Girona the Kings set up camp outside town on the 5th where children can go to post their letters and see their exotic entourage before the procession starts in late afternoon, once it is dark. The streets are lined with excited children all singing and shouting and parents vying for the best spots to film and catch sweets.
No public celebration is complete without a traditional food, in this case a "Coca de Reis" which is a round sweet doughnut shaped cake with different fillings of cream or marzipan. The person that bites on the small ceramic figure hidden in their slice has good luck for the year ahead and usually encourages multiple slices until it has been discovered.
Children have a few days to play with their new toys before school begins on the 8th and parents have to face the sad reality of extra kilos and empty bank accounts!

         
Click here to download:
Three_Kings_day-Spanish_holida.zip (1610 KB)

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Filed under  //   Catalonia   Coca de Reis   Girona   Reis   Spain   Three Kings Day  

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