gironaJ

 
Filed under

Barcelona

 

The Jewish Museum of Girona

Girona was home to a large and flourishing religious, cultural and economic community of Jews from the 9th to the 15th century when they were forced to choose between converting to Catholicism or leaving the country.

For many centuries before this sad ending the Jews built up an important position in trades like leather work, tailoring, baking, trading goods, building and of course money lending. The "call" or ghetto was separated from the rest of town by gates, they had their own ruling council and made their own laws, all possible because they paid their taxes direct to the Spanish Kings. 
The museum is set in what was the last of at least three synagogues found in Girona, with its own "micvah" for ceremonial baths attached. The daily life during the middle ages is explained and how Girona established an important reputation for religious enquiry. Along with other Jewish communities in Barcelona, Besalu, Perpignan and Tortosa they established trading routes and the foundations of banking and commercial networks which helped these communities flourish.
Eventually clashes with the catholics increased, taxes were progressively raised, the local interference increased including forcing Jews to wear identifying badges and in 1391 there were several important riots where many died. In Girona after one of these attacks the remaining Jews were put in the Gironalla tower, supposedly for their protection, in terrible conditions and left for 17 weeks while their houses and businesses were looted and burned.
By 1492 when Queen Isabella issued the order requiring Jews to convert or leave within 3 months, many converted only to be hunted down in subsequent years by the Spanish Inquisition and, of the ones that fled, many went to Perpignan due to proximity but the French king expelled them a year later so the respite was brief.
Most Jewish exiles ended up in Rome, Constantinople or Salonika where the Turks welcomed their capital and skills with open arms.
Despite their persecution in Spain many families managed to convert and have integrated to such an extent that the Catalans are sometimes referred to as the Jews of Spain, referring to their work ethic and business acumen.

           
Click here to download:
The_Jewish_Museum_of_Girona.zip (7664 KB)

Loading mentions Retweet
Filed under  //   Barcelona   Besalu   Constantinople   Girona   History Museum   Isabel   Jewish   Jews   Perpignan   Rome   Salonika   the Call   Tortosa  

Comments [1]

Priorat wine tour

The Priorat is one of the hidden gems of the Spanish wine world and luckily it is much easier to visit now that the access roads have improved and only takes an hour and a half to reach from Barcelona.
Why go there? Well the terrain is mountainous, the climate very dry and extreme and the roads narrow and winding but despite all of this the drama of the steep slopes planted with almond trees or vines, villages built on rocky outcrops and above all some spectacular wines are what should bring you here.
This is where the traditional varieties of garnacha (white and red) and cariñena are blended with newer arrivals cabernet, syrah and merlot to make some of the most powerful yet complex wines which reflect the wild herbs and red fruit aromas which send wine lovers all over the world into ecstasy.
It is fair to say that these wines have a bigger following outside of Spain due to what is referred to locally as "Riojitis" but cost has also been a factor since many of these wines have been overpriced. Reality seems to have set in and there are plenty of very interesting offerings in the 10-25€ range as the number of Bodegas (wineries) has exploded from a dozen to nearly a hundred in only ten years.
A day trip visiting two contrasting bodegas with a full lunch in between is a great way to discover this wild area and I know you will fall in love with it just like me!
Contact: wine.walks@gmail.com for more details.

           
Click here to download:
Priorat_wine_tour.zip (5326 KB)

Loading mentions Retweet
Filed under  //   Barcelona   Bodega   cabernet   cariñena   Falset   garnacha   merlot   Priorat   Priorato   shiraz   Spanish wine   syrah   tours   wine tasting   wine tour   winery  

Comments [0]

Barcelona Olympic stadium & Magic Fountain

Some big cities just have it, and Barcelona is one of them. Last Saturday evening for example there was a world class athletics meet at the Olympic stadium on Montjuic and later we watched the Magic Fountain show from the steps of the MNAC- fabulous entertainment all round!
The athletics "Miting" had some big stars that were keen to get some last minute competitive races in before the World Championships in Berlin in august but the highlight of the evening was Marta Dominguez' Spanish record in the 3,000m steeplechase. Ever the competitor, she came through brilliantly with the home crowd saluting her efforts in what is still one of the greatest venues in athletics history with the '92 Olympics ever present.
A short walk from the stadium to the steps of the MNAC and we had another wonderful surprise looking down over the Plaza Espanya and the Magic Fountain light and music show. During the summer months you can see it from thu-sun from around dusk (9.30pm) and is well worth catching for the informal atmosphere, balmy night temperature and of course the dramatic water, light and music show.
For a city which is no longer cheap these fun events on a Saturday night were a true bargain (athletics 10€ Magic Fountain free!)

   
Click here to download:
Barcelona_Olympic_stadium_Magi.zip (5121 KB)

Loading mentions Retweet
Filed under  //   000m steeplechase   3   92 Olmpics   Barcelona   Magic Fountain   Marta Dominguez   MNAC   Olympic stadium   Plaza Espanya  

Comments [0]

Hospital de Sant Pau- Modernist gem

Barcelona is not short of its own versions of Art Nouveau and Gothic style architecture which became known as Modernism in the late 19th century. The scale and extent of the Hospital de la Santa Creu i Sant Pau started in 1902 on the medieval site which has been in continuous use since 1401 is something to behold.

After Gaudi, the most famous Catalan architect is Lluis Domenech i Montaner and he shepherded this ambitious project which originally contemplated 48 pavilions on the site but ended up with 18 of which 12 were designed by him.
The idea was to modernise the ancient facilities making them more hygenic and practical while combining patients, doctors and ample space for rest and recovery. Using the "new" materials which were coming into fashion the use of steel, brick, tiles and glass with decorative features both inside and outside the pavillions creates an impressive environment.
The whole is set in extensive grounds with gardens, fountains and paths leading between the various pavilions and provides an ideal place to wander around or sit on a bench in the shade, forgetting you are in central Barcelona.
If I have to spend any time in a hospital, please make sure it is this one!

           
Click here to download:
Hospital_de_Sant_Pau-_Modernis.zip (7774 KB)

Loading mentions Retweet
Filed under  //   architecture   Art Nouveau   Barcelona   Gaudi   Gothic   Hospital de Sant Pau   Lluis Domenech i Montaner   Modernism   Modernist   Montaner   UNESCO heritage site  

Comments [0]

Must see- Capa's and Taro's Spanish Civil War photos

After the wonderful Sorolla exhibition, which is now in Madrid, the MNAC is hosting another must see with photos which inflamed the world and sent thousands of idealists like George Orwell to join the anti-fascist cause during the Spanish Civil War.

Robert Capa and his partner Gerda Taro were instrumental in filling the new media of illustrated weekly magazines which became so influential and of which they were some of the pioneers of photo-journalism.
The pictures are of the front line at the Battle of the Ebro, one of the bloodiest of the war and also shows the other tragic side of war with the flood of refugees heading out of Tarragona and Barcelona and heading for the French border in 1939 when the war was almost over.
Capa went on to record wars in China and was present for the D Day landing of which there are few such dramatic pictures.
Even after 70 years the Civil War and it's legacy is a period most Spaniards would rather forget but these photos will not let us and so it should be especially since Gerda Taro and so many others gave their lives in the effort.

           
Click here to download:
Must_see-_Capas_and_Taros_Span.zip (3723 KB)

Loading mentions Retweet
Filed under  //   Barcelona   D Day landing   George Orwell   Gerda Taro   Madrid   MNAC   Robert Capa   Sorolla   Spanish Civil War  

Comments [0]

The Tour Girona-Barcelona FIESTA!

The local Gironins are a fairly dour lot but the Tour de France brought out the crowds, waving, cheering and generally enjoying the festive spirit and the commercial circus of one of the greatest races on earth.

Cycling has put Girona on the map for a very important market niche, pro and keen enthusiast cyclists from all over the world have come here to enjoy the variety of terrain, moderate climate and relaxed atmosphere between the Mediterranean and Pyrenees.
This phenomenon is almost entirely due to one person, Lance Armstrong, who based himself and his then team, US Postal, here in Girona for some 5 years. We now have two professional teams, Columbia and Garmin, calling Girona home for a part of the year with all their riders and support staff adding an international flavour and economic boost to the area.
Personally I would erect a monument to Lance in the main Plaça Catalunya but the next best thing is to host the Tour and let's hope it re-enforces the position Girona has in the hearts and minds of many cyclists, past, present and future.

         
Click here to download:
The_Tour_Girona-Barcelona_FIES.zip (4982 KB)

Loading mentions Retweet
Filed under  //   Barcelona   Columbia   cycling   Garmin   Girona   Lance Armstrong   Le Tour   Placa Catalunya   TDF   The Tour   Tour de France  

Comments [0]

Lleida la Seu Vella cloisters

Lleida is on the westernmost edge of Catalonia and on the main roads to Zaragoza and Madrid from Barcelona. The plains around here produce many kinds of soft fruit like pears, peaches, cherries and apples as well as grapes from the D.O.Costers del Segre. The key to the agriculture is having the river Segre as a source for irrigation as without it only olive trees, almonds and vines can survive the extreme conditions.

Lleida itself has a hill in the middle topped by the Seu Vella, a Romanesque cathedral which was later abandoned and incorporated into a modern fort in the 17th century.
The cloisters are some of the biggest and most beautiful in Europe, built in the 13th and 14th centuries and from where there are magnificent views of the surrounding city and countryside. There is a small museum which houses some of the recovered archaeological remains found within the walls of the fort. The contrast of the thick walls of the fort surrounding the delicate arches of the cloister makes this a very special place.
So, if you are driving by make sure you make a detour and revel in the beauty of the cloisters of the Seu Vella, you won't regret it.

           
Click here to download:
Lleida_la_Seu_Vella_cloisters.zip (6346 KB)

Loading mentions Retweet
Filed under  //   Barcelona   Catalonia   Cathedral   Costers del Segre D.O.   la Seu Vella   Lleida   Madrid   Segre river   Zaragoza  

Comments [0]

Sitges-year round fun

Sitges, now famous as the gay capital of Europe, has always been a place the good folk of Barcelona escaped to for fun and frolics. The 40 km distance is an easy drive or train ride and when you arrive you feel this is a place where most things go set in a beautiful setting with beaches and a crystal blue sea in touching distance.

The "pink" crowd have made sure that eating choices are both plentiful, varied and good with lots of funky terraces and passageways worth exploring, gastronomically speaking. The narrow streets of the old town offer lots of interesting architecture and are also noteworthy for the ceramic street name plaques and the colourful balconies festooned with  flowerpots and plants. There are plenty of boutiques for those seeking a bit of shopping therapy but there are also some interesting museums for those seeking more classic culture. The annual film festival specialising in the horror genre is very popular and attracts many people from all over the world.
All in all Sitges is well worth a stop to explore, only the most jaded will pass by unimpressed, and they possibly should stay longer anyway!

             
Click here to download:
Sitges-year_round_fun.zip (9492 KB)

Loading mentions Retweet
Filed under  //   Barcelona   gay   Mediterranean   pink   Sitges  

Comments [0]

A Modernist cemetery

Off the beaten path for most visitors to Barcelona is an area with
lots of interesting architecture set on a hillside with good views- we
are talking about a cemetery.
The Montjuïc hill which dominates the southern side of the city was
first used and named after the Jews that used it as a burial ground
and about a third of it still is, although now a christian site.
When Catalonia and Barcelona started to flourish economically at the
end of the 19th century the cemetery was one of the main beneficiaries
with all sorts of exotic and new forms and materials used to create
the final resting places for the main families.
Wandering up the steep hillside under the tall cypress trees looking
at some of the best elements of Expressionist or what the Catalans
called Modernist art forms is really quite fun. This is characterized
by themes of natural romantic phenomena such as caves and rock
formations and utilises the creative potential of artisan
craftsmanship which you see all around you in the different shapes and
materials used in the crypts and graves.
All the best architects and craftsmen of their day were involved here
and several parts were designed by the ubiquitous Antoni Gaudí as well
as Lluis Domenech i Montaner, the two biggest stars of their day.

             
Click here to download:
A_Modernist_cemetery.zip (10097 KB)

Loading mentions Retweet
Filed under  //   Anton Gaudi   Barcelona   Catalan   cemetery   Expressionist   Jews   Lluis Domenech i Montaner   Modernist   Montjuic  

Comments [0]

Parc Güell Barcelona

One of the must see places in Barcelona is the Parc Güell which Gaudí designed between 1900-1914 for his patron the banker Eusebi Güell. Actually a failed upmarket housing project, only 2 houses were completed, and Gaudí bought one for his family.
The park is set in several hectares and as with all of Gaudi's projects there are lots of interesting details to take in as well as some of the best views of Barcelona spread out below.
Set around a central open space with the famous dragon seats with the "trencadis" (broken tile pieces used to cover curved surfaces) which are both colourful and comfortable.
The park is well maintained and there are always plenty of flowers and trees along the paths providing both shade and exotic smells wafted up by the sea breeze which was one of the original selling points of the location.
Be sure to look closely at the gates, walls, windows and roofs to see the amazing things Gaudí did with cement, metalwork, bricks and tiles inspired by his love of nature.

           
Click here to download:
Parc_Gell_Barcelona.zip (5604 KB)

Loading mentions Retweet
Filed under  //   Anton Gaudi   Barcelona   Eusebi Guell   Parc Guell   park   trencadis  

Comments [0]