The Jewish Museum of Girona
Girona was home to a large and flourishing religious, cultural and economic community of Jews from the 9th to the 15th century when they were forced to choose between converting to Catholicism or leaving the country.
Girona was home to a large and flourishing religious, cultural and economic community of Jews from the 9th to the 15th century when they were forced to choose between converting to Catholicism or leaving the country.
The Priorat is one of the hidden gems of the Spanish wine world and luckily it is much easier to visit now that the access roads have improved and only takes an hour and a half to reach from Barcelona.
Why go there? Well the terrain is mountainous, the climate very dry and extreme and the roads narrow and winding but despite all of this the drama of the steep slopes planted with almond trees or vines, villages built on rocky outcrops and above all some spectacular wines are what should bring you here.
This is where the traditional varieties of garnacha (white and red) and cariñena are blended with newer arrivals cabernet, syrah and merlot to make some of the most powerful yet complex wines which reflect the wild herbs and red fruit aromas which send wine lovers all over the world into ecstasy.
It is fair to say that these wines have a bigger following outside of Spain due to what is referred to locally as "Riojitis" but cost has also been a factor since many of these wines have been overpriced. Reality seems to have set in and there are plenty of very interesting offerings in the 10-25€ range as the number of Bodegas (wineries) has exploded from a dozen to nearly a hundred in only ten years.
A day trip visiting two contrasting bodegas with a full lunch in between is a great way to discover this wild area and I know you will fall in love with it just like me!
Contact: wine.walks@gmail.com for more details.
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Some big cities just have it, and Barcelona is one of them. Last Saturday evening for example there was a world class athletics meet at the Olympic stadium on Montjuic and later we watched the Magic Fountain show from the steps of the MNAC- fabulous entertainment all round!
The athletics "Miting" had some big stars that were keen to get some last minute competitive races in before the World Championships in Berlin in august but the highlight of the evening was Marta Dominguez' Spanish record in the 3,000m steeplechase. Ever the competitor, she came through brilliantly with the home crowd saluting her efforts in what is still one of the greatest venues in athletics history with the '92 Olympics ever present.
A short walk from the stadium to the steps of the MNAC and we had another wonderful surprise looking down over the Plaza Espanya and the Magic Fountain light and music show. During the summer months you can see it from thu-sun from around dusk (9.30pm) and is well worth catching for the informal atmosphere, balmy night temperature and of course the dramatic water, light and music show.
For a city which is no longer cheap these fun events on a Saturday night were a true bargain (athletics 10€ Magic Fountain free!)
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Barcelona is not short of its own versions of Art Nouveau and Gothic style architecture which became known as Modernism in the late 19th century. The scale and extent of the Hospital de la Santa Creu i Sant Pau started in 1902 on the medieval site which has been in continuous use since 1401 is something to behold.
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After the wonderful Sorolla exhibition, which is now in Madrid, the MNAC is hosting another must see with photos which inflamed the world and sent thousands of idealists like George Orwell to join the anti-fascist cause during the Spanish Civil War.
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The local Gironins are a fairly dour lot but the Tour de France brought out the crowds, waving, cheering and generally enjoying the festive spirit and the commercial circus of one of the greatest races on earth.
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Lleida is on the westernmost edge of Catalonia and on the main roads to Zaragoza and Madrid from Barcelona. The plains around here produce many kinds of soft fruit like pears, peaches, cherries and apples as well as grapes from the D.O.Costers del Segre. The key to the agriculture is having the river Segre as a source for irrigation as without it only olive trees, almonds and vines can survive the extreme conditions.
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Sitges, now famous as the gay capital of Europe, has always been a place the good folk of Barcelona escaped to for fun and frolics. The 40 km distance is an easy drive or train ride and when you arrive you feel this is a place where most things go set in a beautiful setting with beaches and a crystal blue sea in touching distance.
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Off the beaten path for most visitors to Barcelona is an area with
lots of interesting architecture set on a hillside with good views- we
are talking about a cemetery.
The Montjuïc hill which dominates the southern side of the city was
first used and named after the Jews that used it as a burial ground
and about a third of it still is, although now a christian site.
When Catalonia and Barcelona started to flourish economically at the
end of the 19th century the cemetery was one of the main beneficiaries
with all sorts of exotic and new forms and materials used to create
the final resting places for the main families.
Wandering up the steep hillside under the tall cypress trees looking
at some of the best elements of Expressionist or what the Catalans
called Modernist art forms is really quite fun. This is characterized
by themes of natural romantic phenomena such as caves and rock
formations and utilises the creative potential of artisan
craftsmanship which you see all around you in the different shapes and
materials used in the crypts and graves.
All the best architects and craftsmen of their day were involved here
and several parts were designed by the ubiquitous Antoni Gaudí as well
as Lluis Domenech i Montaner, the two biggest stars of their day.
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One of the must see places in Barcelona is the Parc Güell which Gaudí designed between 1900-1914 for his patron the banker Eusebi Güell. Actually a failed upmarket housing project, only 2 houses were completed, and Gaudí bought one for his family.
The park is set in several hectares and as with all of Gaudi's projects there are lots of interesting details to take in as well as some of the best views of Barcelona spread out below.
Set around a central open space with the famous dragon seats with the "trencadis" (broken tile pieces used to cover curved surfaces) which are both colourful and comfortable.
The park is well maintained and there are always plenty of flowers and trees along the paths providing both shade and exotic smells wafted up by the sea breeze which was one of the original selling points of the location.
Be sure to look closely at the gates, walls, windows and roofs to see the amazing things Gaudí did with cement, metalwork, bricks and tiles inspired by his love of nature.
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